Having always intended to explore the new or Western River sometime since discovered by Mr. Evans Actg. Depy. Surveyor; Mrs. M. and myself in Mr. Maclaines Boat, accompanied by Capt. Antill, Dr. Redfern, Mr. Evans, & Ensn. Maclaine; and Capt. Cleaveland, Mr. Meehan and Mr. G. Blaxland in another Small Boat we found on Dr. Jamison's Farm, with a sufficient number of Rowers and some refreshments; set out from our Encampment this morning at 6 o'clock on our Water Excursion up the Nepean River. ---We rowed up leisurely so as to have the more time to enjoy the fine and beautiful Scenery of this large River, the Banks of which are very lofty and clothed with wood to the very top. ---After a pleasant row of four hours, we reached the confluence of the New River and Nepean; the latter dwindling here into a petty stream, and [the] other pouring an immense body of water into a circular Bason, [sic] which connects with the Nepean at this Spot, and then forms one large River. The New River at its confluence with the Nepean runs North West and South East, and a little above the Bason [sic] is about 25 yards broad, the Channel being perfectly clear of Rocks and of considerable depth for a few miles farther up. The Distance from Dr. Jamison's Farm to the junction of the New River with the Nepean cannot be less than Twelve miles from the time we took to row it. ---After we had proceeded about half a mile up the River, we halted at a beautiful romantic spot on the Right Bank of it, forming a sort of natural Terrace at the foot of a prodigious high cliff, in order to take our Breakfast and view the grand surrounding scenery. ---We were all well prepared for making a hearty meal, and which everyone enjoyed very much after so long a voyage, and in so beautiful a sequestered spot.
The Banks of the River are here very lofty and almost perpendicular, not being less than 400 Feet in height and wooded to their very summits. ---They are beautifully grand and Picturesque to look at, but extremely difficult to pass or travel through on foot from their great steepness and ruggedness.
One of the natives born near this part of the Country, and who made one of our Party on this day's Excursion, tells us that the real and proper native name of this newly discovered River that we are now exploring is the Warragombie, by which name I have directed it to be called in future. ---The immense high Hill directly opposite to the Terrace we Breakfasted on, is called Cheenbar , and is well known to the Natives. ---After we had Breakfasted we prosecuted our Excursion up the River in our Boats, intending to go as far as our time would permit so as to return the same Day to our Encampment; but before we had proceeded three miles above where we had Breakfasted, our further progress was arrested by the first Fall or Cataract, and which precluded the possibility of proceeding farther on without carrying the Boats over this Fall, which would here prove very laborious. ---We therefore resolved on abandoning every idea of pursuing our researches farther; and contenting ourselves with what we had already seen of this fine noble River, to return to our Encampment.
Before we reached the first Fall the River began gradually to contract its Bed, the depth of water was less, and large Rocks were interspersed in the Channel, but still quite sufficient Depth of Water for our Boats up to the Fall. ---Beyond the first fall we could perceive several others at great distances, which was an additional reason for our not attempting to pass the first fall. ---The Banks on both sides of the River, as far as we went, and as far as we could see beyond the first Fall, continue immensely high and lofty and covered with fine wood to their summits -- being in many Places above 400 feet high. ---The River Warragombie runs nearly South West and North East at the first Fall. ---We arrived there at 2 o'clock, and after resting our Rowers for about half an Hour, we set out on our return Home, arriving at our Encampment at 1/2 past 7 o'clock in the evening, highly pleased and gratified with our Day's Excursion to the Warragombie; which we had explored two miles higher up than Mr. Evans or any other Person had ever before attempted to do. ---This Day's Journey by water was at least Thirty Miles backwards and forwards. ---We dined immediately on our arrival in Camp, and went early to Bed.
After Breakfast, at 1/2 past 10 o'clock this morning, we broke up our Camp at Dr. Jamison's Farm, and set out to prosecute our Tour along the Farms situated further down the Rivers Nepean and Hawkesbury ---our Servants & Baggage setting out at the same time by a more direct Route to our next resting Place or Ground of Encampment on the banks of the Hawkesbury; and Ensn. Maclaine's Boat being sent back on a waggon to Parramatta. ---Our pleasant facetious travelling companion Mr. Gregory Blaxland took his leave of us this morning and returned home to attend his own concerns.---
After leaving Doctor Jamison's Farm we passed through Capt. Woodriffe's and Mr. Chapman's, both on the Right Bank of the Nepean and which appeared a very fine rich Soil fit both for Tillage and Pasturage. ---Thence we passed through a long extensive chain of Farms along the Nepean belonging to Appledore, Westmore, Collett, Stanyard, Pickering, Field, Stephen Smith, Jones, Cheshire, Harris, Guy, Wm. Cheshire, Landrine, Stockfish, Oldwright, Ryan, Griffith, Kennedy &c. &c. being the front line of Farms on this River.
These are all good Farms, good soil, and well cultivated, but they are liable to be flooded in general when this River overflows its Banks, and consequently the Houses of the Settlers are very mean and paltry.
There was a tolerable good Road for the Carriage through the whole of these Farms. ---On arriving at Donald Kennedy's Farm, which is beautifully situated on a rising ground near the River, I quitted the carriage and mounted my Horse to view the back line of Farms, and explore the Ground intended to be laid out shortly for a Township and place of security and retreat for the Settlers inhabiting this part of the Country; leaving Mrs. M. at Kennedy's Farm till my return. ---I was accompanied by the Surveyors and the rest of the Party, and we rode over the High Grounds intended for the Township, and which appears a most eligible situation for one and not more than 3 miles from the River. We returned by the back line of Farms to Kennedy's, where we rejoined Mrs. M. and thence pursued our Journey along the remaining parts of the Nepean District in the Carriage. On arriving at Mr. Thompson's Farm of Agnes Bank, we were joined by Mr. Wm. Cox the Magistrate of these Districts. ---From Agnes Bank we proceeded to view the Confluence of the Nepean and Grosse Rivers, which is within about two miles of that Farm. ---We drove in the Carriage close to the spot of the junction of the two Rivers, which we went to view on foot, and were highly gratified with the sight. ---From the confluence of these two Rivers, the noble River Hawkesbury commences; but here it is only an inconsiderable stream, and not navigable even for small Boats for three or four miles farther down. ---From the confluence of the Nepean and Grosse Rivers we proceeded again in the Carriage along the front line of Farms on the Hawkesbury, till we arrived at the Yellow-Mundie-Lagoon, a noble lake of fine fresh water, at the North End of which we halted and Encamped for the Night; finding all our Servants and Baggage just arrived there only a few minutes before us. ---Here Mr. Cox took his leave of us to go home to his own House as did Mr. Evans; promising to be with us again early in the morning.
Whilst our Tents were Pitching and our Dinner getting ready, Mrs. M. and myself took a short ride on Horseback along the Banks of this beautiful Lagoon, returning again to our Tents in about an Hour; having first arrived at our ground of Encampment at 1/2 past 6 o'clock, after a Journey of about 25 miles, besides my extra ride to the Township. ---We did not dine till 2 past 8 o'clock -- and went soon afterwards to Bed.
---We Breakfasted at 9 o'clock this morning, having been joined previous thereto by Mr. Cox, Mr. & Mrs. Evans, Mr. Forest and some other Visitors. ---Having sent off our Servants & Baggage and Carriage by the direct Road to the Government Cottage at the Green Hills on the Right Bank of the Hawkesbury, we mounted our Horses to make an Excursion to Richmond Hill, the Kurry Jung Brush, and Richmond Terrace on the Left Bank of the Hawkesbury; setting out from the Yellow-Mundie Lagoon at 10 o'clock, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie, the Gentlemen of our own Family, Mr. Cox & Mr. Evans, we crossed the Hawkesbury about a mile from our last Encampment, in a Boat to Richmond Hill, our Horses crossing the River by a bad Ford about half a mile higher up, and which we mounted again on landing at Richmond Hill. ---We rode up the Hill to call on Mrs. Bell (the Wife of Lieut. Bell of the 102d Regt.) who resides on her Farm on the summit of this beautiful Hill, from which there is a very fine commanding Prospect of the River Hawkesbury and adjacent Country. ---We found Mrs. Bell and her Family at Home, and after sitting with them for about an hour, we again mounted our Horses to prosecute our Excursion, directing our course for the Kurry Jung Hill.
Soon after leaving Richmond Hill I discovered that my favorite horse Cato, which I had hitherto rode from the commencement of my Tour, was quite lame occasioned by a wrench he had got in crossing the River this morning at the deep bad Ford already alluded to. ---In consequence of this accident I was obliged to send him back to go leisurely to the Green Hills, and to mount one of the Dragoon Horses during the rest of this day's Excursion. ---We rode through a fine open Forest and Hilly Country for about 5 miles to the Foot of the Curry [sic] Jung Hill, which is very long and steep to ascend, arriving on the summit of it at 12 o'clock, and from whence we had a very grand noble Prospect of the low grounds on both Banks of the River Hawkesbury as far as the Green Hills. ---Having feasted our Eyes with this fine prospect on the one hand, and with that of the Blue Mountains ( here quite close to us ) on the other, we began to descend the Hill on the opposite side to that we ascended it, and the descent was so very steep that we had great difficulty to sit our Horses. ---We arrived, however, safe and without meeting with any accident at the bottom of the Hill, which from the summit to the foot cannot be less than a mile long, excessively steep, and covered with thick Brush-wood; but through which Mr. Evans had had a small Passage or Road made some little time before, with the view to mark out the best Path to descend the Hill. ---The Brush wood that covers the sides of this Hill is full of a small sort of Leech, which fasten on Horses Feet and annoy & fret them very much. ---Mrs. M. had two or three of them on her ankles at one time, and all our Horses were attacked by them, but they were soon shook off. ---We found plenty of Wild Raspberries on the sides of this Hill, but they were without any flavour and not worth Eating.
On leaving the Kurry Jung Hill (named by the late Mr. Thompson "Mount Maurice" out of compliment to Lt. Col. O'Connell), we pursued our way through that District of Country called the Kurry-Jung-Brush, which is a fine range of Hill & Dale alternately, and admirably well calculated for Pasturage, being well watered and abounding in good grass and good shelter for both Black Cattle & Sheep. Several Farms having been located in this fine tract of Country to different Individuals in the time of the Usurped Government, I desired Mr. Meehan the Acting Surveyor to point them out to me as we rode along.
About 2 p.m. we quitted the Kurry-Jung Brush and arrived on what is called Richmond Terrace, running Parallel with the Hawkesbury for about 3 miles and commanding a very rich and beautiful prospect of the low grounds on each side of the River, now looking very rich, being covered with luxuriant Crops of Wheat ready for cutting down to repay the Industrious Husbandman for his Toil and Labour. ---From the Terrace we gradually descended into the Plains and Back Line of Farms on the left Bank of the Hawkesbury, and rode through beautiful extensive Fields of Wheat for Six or Seven miles after descending from the Terrace till our arrival on that part of the Bank of the River opposite to the Green Hills. Here we dismounted; and crossed the River ourselves in the late Mr. Thompson's Barge, which was here waiting for us, whilst our Horses swam across the River, which is here about a quarter of a mile broad. At halfpast 5 o'clock we arrived at the Ferry on the Left Bank of the River and at 6 o'clock landed in the Government Garden on the Green Hills and took possession of the Government House -- or, more properly speaking, -- Government Cottage; most beautifully situated on the summit of a very fine Bank or Terrace rising about Fifty feet above the level of the River; of which, and the adjacent Country, there is a very fine view from this sweet delightful spot. ---This day's ride was a very long and fatiguing one for us all, but particularly so for my poor dear Elizabeth; who, however, bore it uncommonly well, notwithstanding she was at least Seven Hours on Horseback, and rode not less than Thirty Miles during this Day's Excursion since we Breakfasted at Yellow-Mundie-Lagoon.---
Mrs. M. and myself were quite delighted with the beauty of this part of the Country; its great fertility, and its Picturesque appearance; and especially with the well-chosen and remarkable fine scite [sic] and situation of the Government Cottage and Garden on the Green Hills. ---We dined soon after our arrival and after Dinner our Friend & Family physician Doctor Redfern took his departure for Sydney.---
Mrs. M. and myself with the Gentlemen of our Family, attended Divine Service this forenoon at the temporary Church at the Green Hills, where the Revd. Mr. Robert Cartwright, the Chaplain of this District, gave us a most excellent Discourse and read Prayers extremely well indeed. ---After church Mrs. Macquarie and myself attended by Capt. Antill, rode in the Carriage to the new Burying Ground, distant about a mile from Government House, to view the Tomb where the remains of our late worthy and highly esteemed good friend Mr. Andw. Thompson, late Chief Magistrate of this District, are deposited, and whose loss we both very sincerely lament and deplore, and from whose superior local knowledge and good sound sense and judicious advice, I once fondly flattered myself I should derive great benefit and advantage during my present Tour of Inspection through this Colony. ---The Spot Mr. Thompson's remains are buried in is most beautiful and happily selected by his Executor Captain Antill; and the Situation of this new Burying Ground altogether is one of the most beautiful and convenient that can well be imagined. ---Having remained there for near Half an Hour, we took our leave of our departed Friend's Tomb (--which we intend to improve and render more elegant & conspicuous as a tribute of regard and friendship for his memory --) and proceeded in the Carriage to see two of his Farms called West Hill(or Red House Farm) and Killarney, both very good ones, and both within the convenient distance of two miles of the town on the Green Hills. The Road to these Farms is very good, and we had a very pleasant Drive to and from them in the Carriage. Mr. Cox and Doctor Mileham dined with us today.
Immediately after Breakfast this morning I set out for the Richmond District, accompanied by the two Surveyors, Mr. Cox the Magistrate, the Revd. Mr. Cartwright, and the Gentlemen of my own Staff, in order to examine and survey the proper Grounds and Scite [sic] for a Town and Township in that District. We rode over the greater part of the Common formerly marked out in the time of Govr. King for the Richmond District, and afterwards over that part of it I deemed most eligible and convenient for erecting a Town and Township on, and which we at length fixed on at the extremity of the Common, near Pugh's Lagoon; intending to have the Church, School-House and Burying Ground on a very beautiful elevated Bank immediately above this fine bason [sic] of Fresh Water, and within about 200 yards of it. ---After fixing on the situation of this Township I proceeded to view the different Farms of the Richmond District, first going along the Back-line as far as Capt. Forest's, and returning Home to the Green Hills by the Center and Front Line of Farms; the Soil of which in general is extremely good, and yield at this present time very fine Crops, but the Houses and Habitations of the Settlers are miserably bad, and the front and center lines of Farms are liable to be flooded on any innundation of the Hawkesbury River. ---This day's Ride was a very hot, long, and fatiguing one; having been Nine Hours on Horseback. ---I set out from the Government House at 8 o'clock in the morning and did not return Home till 5 o'clock in the afternoon, having rode about 35 miles. ---Mrs. M. remained at Home this day, being a good deal fatigued after her long ride on Saturday.---
The Revd. Mr. Cartwright & his wife, Mr. Cox, and Dr. Mileham dined with us this day.
Wishing to explore the Hawkesbury River, down as far as Portland Head, and at the same time view the Front Farms on both Banks that far, I set out this morning between 5 and 6 o'clock, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie, Mrs. Cartwright, Mr. Cartwright, Mr. Cox, Mr. Hassall, and the Gentlemen of our Family, in the late Mr. Thompson's Barge and another smaller Boat, on our Excursion to Portland Head. ---We stopt [sic] at Govr. Bligh's Farm of Blighton , about six miles below the Green Hills on the Right Bank of the River, a very beautiful situation; and after walking about the grounds there for half an hour we proceeded on our Voyage down the River. ---At 8 o'clock we stopped at the New School-House recently erected by Subscription, on the left Bank of the River, a little below Caddye-Creek, but on the opposite side, where we had determined to Breakfast, which was accordingly prepared with all convenient haste within the New School-House, which is prettily situated on the Bank of the River. ---Here Doctor Arndell came to pay us a visit from his Farm on Caddye Creek on the opposite side of the River, and Breakfasted with us. ---After Breakfast we embarked again and prosecuted our voyage down the River, the Banks of which begin here to be very high and Rocky in most places. ---The Farms on both Banks, especially those on the Left Bank, are rich and well cultivated, and make a pretty appearance from the water, being generally interspersed with extensive Orchards of Peaches and other Fruits. ---We reached Portland Head, which is about twenty miles by the windings of the River from the Green Hills, about 12 o'clock; and there being nothing of consequence to be seen lower down the River at this time, we retraced our steps back the same way we came till we arrived at Caddye Creek, where we quitted our Boat and landed at Dr. Arndell's Farm, where we had directed our Carriage & Horses to meet us, and where we found them accordingly waiting for us; the Boats proceeding Home with our Servants & Baggage.
We arrived at Dr. Arndell's House about 2 o'clock, and having rested ourselves for about half an hour there, I set out on Horseback along with the Surveyors, Mr. Cox & Mr. Cartwright to survey and examine the Ground most eligible for a Town & Township in the Nelson District on the Common belonging to that District; Mrs. Macquarie proceeding home in the Carriage. ---Having rode over the Common in various directions, we at length determined upon the part of it most eligible and convenient for a Township, immediately in rear of the Back Line of Farms, and entirely out of the reach of the inundation of the River. ---We then rode home and arrived at the Government Cottage at 1/2 past 6 o'clock in the Evening. ---Mrs. M. had got Home long before us, and had Dinner ready prepared for us, which we enjoyed very much after our long water Excursion in the morning and fatiguing afternoon's ride. ---
I accompanied Mrs. M. in the Carriage this morning to pay Visits, immediately after Breakfast, to Mrs. Cox, Mrs. Pitt, Mrs. Evans & Mrs. Forrest, all residing in different Parts of the Richmond District. ---On our return Home we stopt [sic] for a short time to shew Mrs. M. the Ground intended to be marked out for a Town & Township in the Richmond District close to Pugh's Lagoon, which she admired very much. ---After my return Home I went to examine and view the inside of the Church, School-House and the Government Granaries and Provision Stores --- all which I found in good order and repair; the Grain & Provisions being in excellent good condition. ---Mr. Simeon Lord, and Mr. Moore from Sydney, and Dr. Arndell and his Daughters dined with us this day.---
At 9 o'clock this morning, as soon as we had Breakfasted, I set out, attended by the Surveyors, Mr. Cox, Mr. Fitzgerald, and the Gentlemen of my staff (--leaving Mrs. M. at home) to visit the several Farms on the opposite side of the River, and to examine and survey the proper ground for a Town and Township for the Farms on the Left or North Bank of the River Hawkesbury liable to be flooded by the inundations.---
Having crossed the Ferry at the Green Hills to the North side of the River, we proceeded by the Front & Center line of Farms alternately as far down the River as Kershaw's Farm , about 7 miles from the Green Hills; and thence returning by the Back Line of Farms passed over the Common in rear of them, where we looked for an eligible Spot for the intended Town & Township for the accommodation of the Settlers of the Phillip District and others inhabiting the Northern Bank of the River Hawkesbury, and after carefully surveying the different Parts of the Common we fixed on a very safe and convenient situation for the Town and Township in this part of the Country; which done we returned home and arrived at Government Cottage at 1/2 past 2 o'clock. ---Took some refreshment and walked out to survey the Grounds belonging to the Crown in and near the present village on the Green Hills, and also the adjoining Public Common marked out for this part of the Country in the time of Governor King; a convenient part of which it is now my intention to appropriate for a large Town and Township for the accommodation of the Settlers inhabiting the South side of the River Hawkesbury, whose Farms are liable to be flooded on any inundation of the River, and to connect the present Village on the Green Hills with the intended new Town and Township. ---After viewing the ground and maturely considering the importance of the measure, the scite [sic] and situation of the new Town was at length fixed finally upon ---the exact scite [sic] of the new Church and Great Square being particularly marked out, as well as the extent and situation of the new Burying Ground; the Acting Surveyor, Mr. Meehan, receiving orders to measure and make out a Plan of the whole.---
A large Party of Friends dined with us today, consisting in all of 21 Persons, including our own Family. ---After Dinner I christened the new Townships, drinking a Bumper to the success of each. ---I gave the name of Windsor to the Town intended to be erected in the District of the Green Hills, in continuation of the present Village, from the similarity of this situation to that of the same name in England; the Township in the Richmond District I have named Richmond , from its beautiful situation, and as corresponding with that of its District; the Township for the Evan or Nepean District I have named Castlereagh in honor of Lord Viscount Castlereagh; the Township of the Nelson District I have named Pitt-Town in honor of the immortal memory of the late great William Pitt, the Minister who originally planned this Colony; and the Township for the Phillip District; on the North or left Bank of the Hawkesbury, I have named Wilberforce -- in honor of and out of respect to the good and virtuous Wm. Wilberforce Esqr. M.P. -- a true Patriot and the real Friend of Mankind.
Having sufficiently celebrated this auspicious Day of christening the five Towns and Townships, intended to be erected and established for the security and accommodation of the Settlers and others inhabiting the Cultivated Country, on the Banks of the Rivers Hawkesbury and Nepean; I recommended to the Gentlemen present to exert their influence with the Settlers in stimulating them to lose no time in removing their Habitations, Flocks & Herds to these Places of safety and security, and thereby fulfil my intentions and plans in establishing them.---
As soon as we had broke up from Table, Captain Antill, accompanied by Messrs. Lord and Moore, who had dined with us, set out by water for Scotland Island, a part of the Estate of the late Mr. Thompson, in order to take an account of his Property there, the rest of our Party returning to their respective Homes, highly gratified with their entertainment.---
I received and answered a great number of Petitions and Memorials from Settlers and others in the course of this morning. ---I also received and answered a congratulatory address from the Principal Settlers & Inhabitants of the Hawkesbury and Nepean Districts, presented by Doctor Arndell, the oldest Settler in this Country (--having arrived in the Colony with Govr. Phillip in 1788--) complimenting me on my administration, and first appearance in this part of the Colony; to which I made a suitable reply.---
In the afternoon I went to explore again the scite [sic] of the intended new Town of Windsor, accompanied by the two Surveyors, to whom I communicated my plans and final orders respecting the scite [sic] of the Church, Great Square in the new Town, and Small Square and Streets intended to be formed in the present Village, which is henceforth to form part of the Town of Windsor, and to be designated so accordingly. ---I laid out several new Streets and gave directions for enlarging and improving the old ones, as well as respecting the size and descriptions of all future Houses that are permitted to be built in the Town of Windsor.---
Mr. Cox, Dr. Mileham, and Mr. Evans dined with us again today; my labours at Windsor being now ended.---
At 9 o'clock this morning immediately after Breakfast, Mrs. M. and myself set out in the Carriage from Windsor for Parramatta, accompanied by the Gentlemen of our Family and Mr. Hassall. ---We halted for about a quarter of an Hour at Lt.Col. O'Connell's Farm of Riverston (granted to him by me on his marriage) distant about six miles from Windsor on the High Road to Parramatta; examined his Dairy and Stock-yards, and then pursued our journey. ---On our arriving near the Districts of the Seven Hills and Toongabbee , I quitted the Carriage and mounted my Horse in order to take a view of the Farms in those two Districts; leaving Mrs. M. to pursue her journey in the Carriage to Parramatta, attended by the Orderly Dragoon Serjeant; our Servants and Baggage having been sent off thither early this morning from Windsor. ---Mr. Hassall attended me as Guide to lead me through the numerous Farms in these two Districts, all of which I either saw at a short distance or actually visited in the course of this day's Journey. ---The soil of those Farms is in general, very bad, and exhausted by the Settlers constantly keeping the same Fields in Tillage and giving them no artificial manure. The Houses or rather Huts of the Settlers are very bad, mean, and inconveniently constructed; themselves and their Families badly clothed, and apparently very ill and poorly fed. ---I spoke to and admonished many of them to pay more attention in future to their own Personal cleanliness and comfort and to build themselves better Houses to live in; promising to such as followed this good advice every reasonable assistance and encouragement from Government. ---Having seen all the Farms in the Seven Hills and Toongabbee Districts, I pursued my Journey home to Parramatta, where I arrived at 1/2 past 4 o'clock; finding Mrs. Macquarie at Government House before me.---
[ Back to previous ] [ Historical Influences on the Hawkesbury ] [ Back to Historical Society's Home Page ]